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Equipment Review and Evaluation:
On-Board Fresh Water System with Shower
 Brooke and Chloe demonstrate a valueable benefit of the shower / on-board fresh water system:
shooting water at unsuspecting fools
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 What's not fantastic about a little running water? And on an overland vehicle to boot? Bliss in the outback. Bliss in the wilderness. Cleaning camp dishes, washing hands, hosing down a baby who's diaper exploded with gooey green poo, and taking showers are just the main points.
It also happens to be hilariously damned fun to shoot water at campmates.
For camping on Mexican beaches, the water system is invaluable for hosing off our feet before crawling in the tent. Showering off the saltwater feels like a dream, too. The Sonora, Mexico coastline on the Sea of Cortés is blisteringly hot in summer and well into September, making a quick shower at the end of the day a dream. This carries over to camping just 100 miles from home - a shower is always welcome.
Hell, everything's easier. Most importantly, it makes my wife extremely happy. And if the whole family can go out for three weeks, or three days, living out of the truck . . . that's fun. When camping is comfortable, it's more fun for everybody. That's the whole point.
Added weight: a full 14-gallon tank weighs 115 pounds. This obviously decreases the fuel economy of the Nissan Frontier and means some suspension enhancements might be wise (perhaps new leaf springs, improved shocks, and/or air bags). Also, the electric pump adds complexity to the rig as a whole - it's another component that can fail and one that draws electricity. And the tank, due to the location, needs to have a custom fitted skid plate.
The current water system does not have controlled heat, either. This is a problem in Winter, or when we get out of the desert. However, even on a 70-degree day, ambient heat from the road keeps the water surprisingly warm. Showers are best taken at the end of the day then. This brings up another point: we have to carry around a changing/privacy/shower tent - this means a few pounds added to payload, space taken up in cargo, and additional cost. The first tent I bought was a Paha-Que from Adventure Trailers for about $200. It's a very nice tent, but after losing it in a wind storm, I've moved to a $50 thing from Bass Pro Shops.
The on-board freshwater system is a solution for vehicle-based backcountry traveling (outback touring as they say down under), and improves our level of comfort while camping. It's the sort of modification that's not for everybody. However, a few other choices are listed at the bottom.
About $300-$400 total, depending on the varous components. A good tank is around $100, Shurflo pump is close to $80, and the fittings/hardware/hose/raw materials took the complete project to over $300. A boat deck shower (discussed below) will be about $130.00, but the kitchen sink sprayer is $6.00. And where do you buy this stuff? Tanks and pumps come from RV supply stores, and the hardware/fittings are easily found at your local hardware store.
 14-gallon water tank mounted under the bed (spare tire position), with a 2.8 GPM pump feeding a quick-connect spray port. A trigger sprayer attaches to the port with a 7' long hose for showering, washing, and cleaning.
Tank- 14 gallons, 24" x 14" x 10". Poly tank is IAPMO approved, food grade, and UV stabilized. Comes with 4 fittings (fill, drain, supply, and breather), 3/8" pipe thread.
Pump - Shurflo 2.8 GPM, 12VDC, 7 amp
Dispenser/sprayer- Kitchen sink trigger spray on a 7' long hose and quick connect fitting. Previously had a boat shower that lacked the trigger action and took up much space. Replaced with the kitchen sprayer.
Deck filler neck - Stainless steel with a screw cap, commonly found on boats.
Quick Connect Spray Port - Features twist valves and a nice quick connect (similar to an air chuck) fitting. Helps make the system compact by allowing me to stow the hose/trigger spray anywhere on the vehicle.
Assorted Hardware, Fittings, and Raw Materials - Includes barbs, high-pressure hose, hose clamps, screws, nuts, bolts, steel tubing for the tank brackets, and zip ties.
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Overall Concept:
Poly Tank:

Shurflo Pump:

Deck Shower:

Kitchen Sprayer:

Deck Fill:

Quick-Connect spray port:

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This woman expresses it all: a camp shower is wonderful.
There are a number of ways to skin this cat of on-board water and/or a camp shower, and I chose a fully custom set up on the grounds that it seemed like a fun and moderately challenging project to tackle.
Even though the whole project cost more than I anticipated, I was pleased with the initial result, and quality of most products used.
Thus, five stars overall. It's really a pretty simple thing to add on to the truck.
Helton, Zodi, and a few other companies provide turnkey systems with controlled hot water and are worth checking out if you are looking to do a similar addition to your Frontier (or any vehicle, really). While this on-board water system is fully custom, it's quite basic: tank, pump, and sprayer. Bada bing.
The freshwater poly tank - a standard rectangular 14-gallon tank for fresh water as used in RVs - is widely available in dozens of sizes, often in peculiar shapes, too. You can also have a custom tank made and specify where you want each fitting. RV stores, boat stores, and some online outlets can help.
The natural white color tank is food-grade and UV stabilized. It also features a wall thickness of 1/8" and comes with four fittings in place: one 1.25" barb for the fill line, and three 3/8" female pipe threaded fittings for your drain, supply, and breather lines. This kind of tank should be kept out of direct sunlight to prevent algae growth or possible breakdown (even though it is UV stabilized).
Shurflo Classic Water Pump is a 2.8 GPM (gallons per minute) unit, 12VDC power with draw of 7 amps. Part number 2088-422-144. The intermittent duty pump comes with rubber mounting feet/harness to help isolate the vibration - an excellet feature. The connections for inbound and outbound water use 3/8" pipe thread (and come with barbs for connecting the hoses)so no adapters are needed to connect the pump to the supply line.
The pump also self-primes up to 6 vertical feet, so it doesn't need to be submersed in the tank or near the tank.
It's also small, 7" long on the largest dimension. I knew this would be easy to mount. Paperwork indicated that the pump has a 40 PSI shut off pressure, which means you can close off the supply valve and the pump will also turn off when the line fills with water, creating 40 PSI of back pressure. Nice feature. Definitely a five star product.

Boat deck shower |

Kitchen sink sprayer |
I've gone through the two dispensers above: the deck shower was the first item, but required a lot of space to mount it and also to make adequate space behind it for the 6' hose to retract. On the Nissan Frontier (inside the crossover tool box), the deck shower was just too large. I knew that going into this project but didn't have any other ideas. Three stars only because I knew it was not appropriate for my needs. However, it's a nice shower. This too comes with 3/8" pipe fittings, a 7' hose, adjustable spray pattern, and a hot/cold valve control.
It took some time to realize that a dispenser with a trigger control was what I really needed. A six-dollar kitchen sprayer made a hell of a lot of sense. It's cheap, common, and takes up very little space. One problem: doesn't fit well to the 1/2" ID hose that was being used with the 3/8" pipe fittings. An adaptor or two solved the problem. Being flimsy plastic, I suspect that this will need repacing from time to time. But it's inexpensive.
My trip to the boat store cost me quite a few dollars, and one of those items that cost dearly was the stainless steel deck fill. Very cool indeed. Very overkill, too. The cap uses a spring loaded catch: when depressed, it pops out and allows you to unscrew the cap, which is leashed to the entire device with a stainless chain. Screw the cap on again, then press in the catch and it rests flush with the rest of the assembly. It's a very nice piece of hardware, but required a large hole for mounting - I foolishly elected to put it in the fender.
And it also features a 1.5" barb, so it doesn't mate with one piece of hose to the tank's 1.25" barb. I needed two lengths of differing diameter hose and a reducer. More money in fittings, and more time on the project. (This project is filled with similar mishaps).
Down the road, when I elected to change to the trigger spray, I found this awesome spray quick connect port from dwincorp.com:

Damned cool, right? Hot and cold twist valves and a chuck similar to an air chuck. The box is about 6" square, and 5" deep with a nice little hatch door and hasp. I modified this for my own purposes, by removing the good stuff from the box; but as usual, I should have used it as it came. More below.
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Overall System:
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- Mount tank so that it's protected, out of direct sunlight, and held securely
- Affix pump to vehicle; it's an in-line, self-priming unit and therefore best to have it as close to the tank as possible, but it does prime for up to 6 vertical feet. It can be mounted in nearly any orientation (vertical or horizontal). If mounting vertically, do so with the motor upward and water connections downward.
- Decide where to install the sprayer quick connect (or faucet, shower head, etc. Whatever the case may be) and execute. Drill holes, mount, silicone mating edges as needed, etc.
- Decide where to install the switch for the pump, and prepare by drilling the appropriate hole. I've put the switch next to the quick connect port; this swtich is also weatherproof with a rubber boot.
- Choose the fill port and install where you'd like. This needs to be above the tank to allow gravity to send water to the tank.
- Connnect hoses. This is where you'll need to have the right hose barbs (these connect hoses to the fittings in the tank, at the spray port, and the pump) and hose clamps. Use high-pressure hose on the supply lines. Breather line should be 1/4" hose and affixed somewhere high and protected - I've put it up inside the fender next to the deck filler neck. Note: plastic pipe fittings do not require white plumbing tape.
- Modify sprayer hose with an adapters, hardware and 1/2" ID hose to fit in the quick connect port
- One supply barb to one valve on the port needs to be capped off. We're only using one twist valve, not both. It's designed for hot and cold water supply, but I onlly have one water supply.
- Wire the pump switch. Low amp draw doesn't require the use of a relay.
- Fill the tank, inspect for leaks at the tank fittings. Test the pump and inspect for leaks at the valves, pump, and sprayer.
That's the quick and dirty version of a process that took me about a full weekend including numerous trips to the hardware store.
Plastic (hdpe) pipe fittings do not require plumbing tape on the threads like brass fittings do. That's nice.
Custom fabrication of the water tank mounts/brackets and skid plate made the most difficult portion of the install. Tank is mounted with two 1" steel cross bars across the bottom of the tank, with long threaded rods going the the bed. The skid plate, then, is simply bolted to the bottom of the threaded rods poking through the steel cross bars. Photo of the tank after install without the plate. Click it for a larger one:

(click for full size)
I've mounted the pump to the inside of the custom bumper, then the supply line runs form the pump upward through the bottom of the truck bed to the custom bed cover. The spray port is situated in the corner of the cap, almost under the Eezi-Awn tent but not quite so it's accessible.
Close up of the quick connect spray port:

(click for full size)
A very committing item to install is this fresh water deck filler neck. I elected to put this right in the rear fender sheetmetal on the driver's side.
I thought that was clever. Now I have second thoughts about that. It's over with now, eh?
The filler is at least clean and high quality, but there may be a better place for it.
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Overall System:
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(click for full size)
All dialed in and rockin', the water system is fantastic with the trigger sprayer. Prior, with the deck shower, I wasn't happy with not having control of the water flow at my finger tips. The shower head was great for showering but it moved alot of water. We'd only get 3 (fast) showers out of 14 gallons. Now we get 6 plus basic camp washing.
The trigger spray helps control the flow and makes it easy to clean dishes, wash hands, etc.
Since installing this in the summer of 2006, I've never had a leak or pump failure. However, the deck shower handle seams did start to break down at the time I was swapping it out. Water would leak out when pressurized.
More importantly, though, a quick shower while camping on the beach or rolling into camp after a day on the trail is worth every smile it creates. My wife simply loved having running water available at any time while we were on the road for several weeks in Mexico. Since then, camping and multi-day off highway trips are a lot more fun and relaxing.
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Overall System:
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I'd do this mod again, definitely. It works better than I'd planned, and works flawlessly.My eagerness to complete the water system on our Nissan Frontier did make me foggy headed at times. For instance, the boat deck shower wasn't a smart buy. And those things cost about $150 retail.
Even thought this cost more than I anticipated, making backcountry travel more comfortable for my wife is worth it.
And I fully expect this to pay off with our daughter, too.
Bottom line: everyone loves running water.
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Turn on the pump through a handy switch, open the valve, and aim the sprayer, press the trigger.
Switch: spend the money (about $20 with a rubber boot) on a weatherproof switch if it will be exposed. I fried a general automotive switch (plastic, unsealed casing) already, thinking I could get away with it. Since the switch is next to the spray port, it simply got wet a few times and fried. Lasted about two weeks there.
Here is something you need with an on-board shower:
Shower/Privacy Tent:

The tent above is made by Paha Que - $200.00 retail. It's a very nice unit; spacious, a floor that separates, zippered openings in each side to pass your towel and shower hose, decent set up, etc. I made a grave mistake while camping at Goosenecks State Park in Utah, overlooking the San Juan River gorge. I set up the Paha Que, the left to go tour Monument Valley (about a half hour away).
A wind storm blew in. When I came back to camp, the tent had been yanked from the stakes and launched in the heavy winds. There went $200. Bummer.
I replaced it with a TravelJohn privacy tent, and two joints in the poles failed during her maiden voyage (Baja Mexico). A short phone call to TravelJohn, and they indicated that they had a bad batch of tents and offered to send me a replacement tent after sending them my broken unit. Nearly a year later, I still don't have the replacement. Bummer #2.
Now? Naked behind the rear cab door and stand on a rubber Weathertech floor mat. Works every time and doesn't cost much. But if it's windy, semi-populated, or a little cold . . . watch out.
Try the Outback Porta-Privy shower/privacy tent for $50, as seen on the left here. Rapid set-up and take-down, inexpensive, and all around decent. Sometimes, you just don't need the several-hundred-dollar uber-quality unit. It folds into a 24" diameter round shape, so it may be difficult to store.
As mentioned above the boat deck shower handle seams started to leak after a year of service. They're kind of cool, but I'm not impressed that the seams lasted only a year.
Once, the pump ceased to operate in the middle of a washing session. I checked the fuse and voltage (which were fine), then decided to unscrew the inbound water hose from the pump. Somehow, that flushed out something that was clogging the hose and/or motor. I don't exactly know what it was. Maybe a little dirt or calcium build up.
Here's a good page about maintaining a freshwater system:
www.tank-depot.com/shopping/installation-sanatizing.aspx
In case the information ever goes away, here is what the page says:
| Sanitizing RV & Marine Water Tanks |
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To assure complete sanitation of your potable water tanks, it is recommended that the following procedures be used. This applies to new systems, tanks that have not been used for a period of time or tanks that may have become contaminated.
- Prepare chlorine solution using one gallon of water and a 1/4 cup of Clorox or Purex household bleach (5% sodium hypochlorite). With water tank empty, pour chlorine solution into tank. Use one gallon of solution for each 15 gallons of tank capacity.
- Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain cock until all air has been released and entire system is filled.
- Allow to stand for three hours. -- Drain and flush with potable water. (Important)
- To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a solution of one quart vinegar to five gallons of water and allow this solution to agitate in tank for several days by vehicle motion.-- Drain and flush with potable water. (Important).
The above recommendations conform to Section 10.8 in the A119.2 code covering electrical, plumbing and heating of a recreational vehicle.
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Washing only. I used to use this for drinking water, too, and filled up at a "Water-n-Ice" store that offers RV fill ups of reverse osmosis water. In Mexico, we'd buy a 5 gallon jug of R/O water to re-fill the tank with potable water. Now, I don't recommend using this source for both drinking and washing. It's just easier to bring a 20-liter Scepter water can for the drinking water, and fill the tank with hose water from the house.
Nevertheless, you can refill water tanks at RV camps or by siphoning from a jug. In North America, you can even get it filled witih reverse osmosis water at a store that - holy cow! - sells water.
Plastic taste in the water? Well, we don't seem too concerned about that sort of thing when we buy a bottle of Dasani or Aquafina do we?
 
 
Vehicle mounted and heated, take your pick from:
These all use a heat exchanger spliced into your vehicle's heating system so you can actually control the water temperature with the knobs on your dash. Pretty slick. Most (maybe all three) come with a 12 volt pump and a shower head as demonstrated by the Glind girl on the right. You still have to come up with a water source, but that could be a 5 gallon bucket, and poly tank, or a nearby lake or river.
Very cool, but the initial install is obviously a little bit involved.
    
For something less permanent, try the Zodi Extreme camp shower, as pictured on the left.
The photo probably says it all: metal canister that you manually pump to acheive working pressure. And it heats with a small canister of propane.
And if you want to get even more low-key, get a metal bug sprayer from the home improvement store and heat it on your stove. Same concept, maybe less money invested.
A simple black bag with a little spout does the trick too. They call these a "solar shower." You fill it up with water, leave it out in the sun for a few hours, and - PRESTO - you've got warm shower. Pick it up at any outdoor retailer. The water is gravity fed, so you could hang it from a tree branch, your roof rack, or perhaps set it on the roof of your vehicle.
Another viable choice.
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